12 November 2001

This is all very new to both Sheri and me..!!

We are in the process of learning how to live aboard the Tree of Life. Space is at a premium for storage. We've been looking for places to “store” all of the personal items we felt we could “Not Live Without” ... We took too much “Stuff..!!!”

Yes, this is a pretty big ship... Not BIG enough..!! So, we've had to put things in places we can't easily get to. That means "We will never use them and didn't need them."

We are adjusting to living in very limited space with five other people.

Tony Browne is our 29 year old Captain from Tasmania, Australia. Tony spent the last three years as First Mate aboard the Square Rigger, "Eye Of The Wind.” He was sailing around the world with "Tall Ships 2000." If there is ever a Captain you'd want at your helm... Tony is your man... Cool, competent and decisive!!

Simon McVerry is our First Mate Engineer, he is 30 years old from Brisbane, Australia. Simon crewed on the Tree of Life for almost four years. A Degree in Environmental Science
makes him "Mr. Answer Man" aboard when it comes to nature and oceans. Simon is also a poet with portfolio. He spent a time as a commercial fisherman.

Laura Craik, Tony's First Mate, is Boatswain. She is 22 years old, has been at sea for four years. She is from Holland. Laura is responsible for everything aboard the ship from the deck up... lines, rigging and equipment.

Isla Craik, Hmmmmm.... Craik sounds familiar... sisters..?? Yes, they're sisters..!! Isla is 20 years old, attached to Simon, she does double duty as Cook and Purser. Isla handles the food and purchases.

Finally, Lee Adams, 22 years old, is the ship's Trainee on board for this portion of the voyage, He's from Cape Town, South Africa. Lee will stay with us to Bonaire in mid January.

Now a Brief Update:

Everyone knows we sailed to Bermuda with Lora Lee, Sheri's Mom... What a WONDERFUL experience for us all...!! Sheri and I flew home for a few days after Lora Lee left and back on 6 November.

Sheri and I flew to Bermuda, after spending a week in Newport, last Tuesday afternoon. We timed our landing to coincide with the arrival of Hurricane Michelle into Bermuda. Our landing was frightful..!!

Just as we flew over the threshold of the runway, a gust of wind forced the left wing to dip dramatically and we landed with a thud at an angle to the runway. Not the best way...

Some quick recovery by the pilots got us back in line and we had to power to a sudden stop at the end of the runway in heavy rain and winds..!! All other flights scheduled to land were canceled.

In preparation for the oncoming storm, Tony had relocated the Tree of Life into a safe bay on the opposite side of the Harbour, across from the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club
where we had been dockside for two weeks. The rains and winds increased as we drove into Hamilton by Taxi.

We decided ( Sheri decided..!! ) to stay in a hotel, regardless of where the Tree of Life was.
The Waterloo House, a Relais Chateau property, overlooking Hamilton Harbour was our destination.We had walked past the previous week and saw it was special.

After checking into the Hotel, we could see from our room that the Tree had moved. I walked to the Yacht Club and found a note from Tony telling me where they had gone and he suggested we stay in a hotel for the night... Already done..!! The storm went south of the expected route and spared us of its fury. We experienced 45 to 50 mile an hour gusts for only a few hours.

The next day brought bright sunshine. A great day for Sheri and me to rent Motor Scooters and tour the island, once again. The crew was busy with last minute provisioning for the long
sail to St. Martin and St. Barthelemy, St. Bart's.

11 November

Saturday we left the Yacht Club for the Dockyards for fuel and then to meet up with a noted marine photographer Ian Macdonald-Smith for a scheduled Photo Shoot of the Tree of Life out on the bay...!! Simon took him out in our Tender and he took over 60 pictures of us at all angles.. Can't wait to see them. We spent the night at anchor in St. George's Harbour.

Then morning... we sailed early out of St. George's for St. Martin. We enjoyed good wind throughout the day only to loose them as we approached the “Horse Doldrums,” an area
south of Bermuda where the sailors of old from Europe could be caught for weeks with no wind and would end up eating their horses to survive and throwing their carcasses overboard. Thank goodness we had ample food...

Isla is preparing lunch as I type here and the aromas are distracting me from my “work..!!!” Sorry..... Lunchtime, Pumpkin Soup..!! 8:00 p.m. Just finished my “Watch” 6:00 p.m. - 8:00 p.m. Now on standby for Laura, two more hours. I'll get to bed at 10:00 p.m.

We caught a small Tuna about 4:00 p.m. this afternoon. Simon dressed it and it soon became Dinner... Fresh Sushi with traditional sticky rice and veggies rolled in seaweed wraps.
Isla and Laura served it with chop sticks and wasabi..!!

Still no wind, so we are motoring south at 8.5 Kts. Looking at the chart.... we are exactly 1,000 miles due east of Stuart, FL.... Looking for Dad and Irene ... can't see them. Clear beautiful night, waters smooth, just a slight roll....

That has been our day aboard the Tree of Life....

14 November 2001

“A Slight Roll” developed into “Force 7 Storm..!!” Winds steady at 30 to 34 Kts and gusts to 38 to 40 Kts, Force 8..!! Add to that seas at 6 to 8 feet.!! That's at the waterline, so 12 to 16 footers blowing foam off the tops of the waves. We were in it for 36 hours... Almost everyone got a bit sea sick. With sails reefed, we doing 9 to 10 Kts... on Autopilot..!!

As for the Tree of Life ... steady as she could be...!! The sails prevented us from heaving in the heavy seas. We went up one side and slide down the other as waves crashed on deck. Walking around was impossible... a low crawl, hand to hand holding something solid was a tough go..!! I suffered a few cuts and bruises. Sheri, got a few walnut size bumps on her head and bruises, too.

Man ..!!!! "This is Sailing..!! " Or is it... "Is this Sailing...??"

Marc, Sheri was watching “Camelot”..!! At least 20 times...!!! Forget knowing lyric to the song, Camelot... She's committed the complete dialogue to memory..!!

Today it started to ease off and the sun came out. The ocean waters still remained rough and we motor sailed all day with sails reefed, wind on the port bow at 18 Kts.... It was decided to motor sail or sail to Cuba..!!

It's just after 8:30 p.m. and in bed after doing my Watch from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. and Standby 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. Back on Watch at 2 a.m. so going to call it a day here. Looks like we will make St. Martin by Saturday morning.

17 November

Saturday morning.... I awoke at 6:30 a.m. looked out our stateroom porthole and woke Sheri... There, in bright early morning sun, were the green hills of St. Martin. What a welcomed sight..!!

We sailed into Philipsburg Harbor, the “Dutch Side” of the island. Ironically, we came into the harbor at the same time as the Seaborne Pride, a wonderful small, 192 passenger cruise ship. Sheri and I have talked about going on one of their trips for more than 15 years...!!! Now, here we are side by side..!!

The crew dropped anchor. Tony took our passports and headed to the Customs and Immigration Office on the dinghy. We must register with every country's Immigration Office at their Port Of Entry. Yachts fly a Yellow Flag, Letter Q, from from the mast to indicate they are coming into a foreign country and need to be processed before crew and passengers can leave for land.

Isla made Bacon and Eggs for breakfast... We ate at the new “Dining Table” on deck. Eat your hearts out, Seaborne People...!!!

Sheri and I then headed into town by Dinghy as the crew spent the next few hours washing the ship down with soap and fresh water... Dried salt covered everything in sight, having been covered by the storm earlier discussed.

In town, we found shopping, shopping and more shopping..!! Every electronics, camera and Jewelry store was operated by Indian Nationals. Strange.!! They control retail operations here.

It didn't take us very long to figure out, we had to move on..!! We Taxied over the hill to the French “half of the island.” Dramatic difference..!!! All people in stores and on the streets spoke French as the first language. Very “upscale” part of the Island.

The stores and the restaurants were “Special." Everyone we met was just terrific.!! We were enjoying it all. We had a wonderful lunch at one of the many Harbourside Cafe's. All of the cafes there are side by side and service is half inside the restaurant and half outside on the deck... Reminded us of South Beach.

Yes, even to the People Watching, as all the “Beautiful People” men and women strutted their stuff in a show that was well worth watching..!!

Early the following day, it was time to move on to St. Bart’s... Saint Barthelemy.... Now this island is “Really French..!!!” It was fought over by the British, French and Spanish. It prospered in the late 1600’s when it was used as a base for Pirates. In 1784 the French sold it to Sweden. It is a small island, formed by a volcanic out cropping... Very steep terrain, narrow roads and EVERYTHING on this little island is done “Just Right..!!”

We sailed into Gustovia Harbour at 4:00 p.m. We docked next to the Mega Yacht, Ultima III.. Yes, Ron Pearlman’s Yacht. He owns a little company called Revlon, Ultima II line of cosmetics...!! Thought you might have heard of him.... LOL..!!

But, it’s just another $ 40 Million boat, like so many others out there these days..!!
Locals and tourists alike walked by Ultima III, and came to see the Tree of Life..!! It is still a “kick” to answer their questions about our little ship. The crew is excited as I when it comes to talking about her.

Ahhhhhh.. St. Bart’s, we have such wonderful memories of out last visit here. That was almost 10 years ago. We rented a Jeep and scurried around the island, seeing the changes since our last visit and stopping at familiar places... was great fun. We drove to Club Lafayette for lunch... Nancy Axthelm’s favorite..... Sorry, Nax... Closed and battered..!! Looks like squatters now living in your room with the water view.

The rest of the island has done far better... The Harbour area has grown into a charming French seaside resort. Wonderful restaurants and stores selling the latest fashions. A newly built marina to accommodate more and larger Yachts.

Yet, they manages to save that “special something” that is unique. Three days here was wonderfully too brief..!! But, suffer we must and so we sailed away today...

21 November

A four hour sail to St. Kitts and we are again in paradise...!! This island is tropical, sugar plantations and a true rain forest. We docked at 3:00 p.m. Sheri and I walked thru the town center. By the time we got there, all the stores were closing or closed, 4:00 p.m. during the week and 12:00 noon on Saturdays..!! We went back to the boat in the marina where Ilsa
prepared a delicious dinner on board... Still can’t figure how she does it, day after day always wonderful..!!!

Tomorrow we plan to visit the rain forest and see the thousands of monkeys that live there. They were brought over from Africa during the slave trading period. From here we go to Antigua as we make our way towards the Panama Canal..... Will update you tomorrow night...

We decided to pass Antigua and sail to a little island at the southern tip of Guadeloupe, Isle de Sainte. It is difficult to described or even more to understand... How do so few people live on this wonderful little piece of paradise each and every day, with NOTHING to do but enjoy the day and one another..!! Living is “EASY” here. No pressure to do anything..!! Everyone smiles and goes on doing... What, I'm not sure...!! But, they enjoy doing it..!!

This is too laid back for us and for most people we know..!! However, there a few who might just fit in here.... Hmmmmm...

Simon, Sheri and I prepared for a snorkel this afternoon.We went below to get our gear, and when we returned to the deck we were greeted by the “Largest Sailing Ship” in the world..... The five masted square rigger, Royal Clipper dropping anchor within 75 yards... What a sight..!! We jumped into the Dinghy and sped off for a closer look. Awesome....!! That’s all.....!! Awesome...!!

Sheri and I later went into town for lunch and a walking tour of the village... quaint little fishing village with little else. We had a nice local dish overlooking the water and the “Tree.”

Running into the island villages from anchor in the harbors is quite fun. We went in early next morning, we went to the bakery for fresh French stick bread. Everyone on the streets, some walking, some on scooters and some on bikes all headed home with two or more loaves of bread... Just like in the movies..!!

We hurried back to the ship to find Tony in the Galley whipping up Canadian bacon and eggs with grilled tomatoes....!! Good Cook, Tony is..!! And let's not forget fresh French stick bread, breakfast on deck. Following a few stories of the crews former exploits.... We were off sailing once again for another island..!!

29 November

Dominica.... This is an island I knew nothing about. Simon and Isla were here two years ago with Kelly Kellogg on the Tree of Life's final sail north before she was put up for sale. As it turned out, what a treat for us all to sail into Dominica. Three miles out, we were “greeted” by a host of native men in their colorful motor boats with names like “Ravioli Lover” “Song Bird” and the like, offering their services as guides up the Indian River and for any other needs we might have while in town...!! Our Crusing Guide to the Islands recommended two guides they felt were the "Best" of the lot... Jeffrey was one of those mentioned and he happened by as well. We assured him we would use him in the morning and he went on his way.

It was another “Isla Creation” for dinner, followed by a bit of Barry White singing softly in the air under a cloudless night with a Full Moon above. Sheri and I lying on deck lounge,
moved by the experience went off to bed early.........

Jeffrey arrived at 9:15 a.m. for our journey up the Indian River. We all piled into his colorful Red Boat with a sputtering 40 HP Evinrude engine, and off for a day's adventure. The River tour was “rather unimpressive” and ended by 11:00 a.m. I suggested we take an Island tour by Taxi and see and feel the Island.... Jeffrey made the arrangements by riding a bicycle to find the “Right Guide” for us.

Soon after, “Shadow Warrior” drove up in a van, our guide had arrived..!!! There is a native Caribe Indian Reservation on the other side of the Island. Shadow, being half Caribe Indian would take us there thru the Rain Forest and to Emerald Falls.

First he suggested a restaurant for us to have lunch along the way. After a 20 minute drive along beautiful fields of a Banana Plantation and fields of Sugar Cane, we broke out along the Atlantic coastline, coming from the west, leeward side. Everything we saw was impressive.
The mountain road, slightly wider than the van, wound itself in what seemed to be knots as Shadow made his way down into the deepest valley and the sharply turn upwards over another part of the mountain.

We arrived at the restaurant for lunch and were met by Patrick. He was the owner of the newly opened small hotel and eatery. Seven people without warning for lunch threw him a bit.
He asked for proper time to prepare, we told him we were in no hurry. A quick telephone call brought a young, beautiful black woman running up the long set of steps from the street. She set our tables and served us the most delicious Creole lunch Patrick so proudly sent out of his kitchen.

Shadow Warrior was in his glory, beaming at the success of his recommendation. Only then did we learn he had never been there either. Judging from the attention he paid to the waitress, it won't be his last.

Driving south along the Atlantic coast of the island, took us thru small villages, to black sandy beaches. More tropical plants, flowers and trees than anyone could have imagined assembled in one area.

We then arrived at the Carib Indian Reservation. The Caribous look very much Asian, dark skin with slanted eyes. They came to the Island from South America. It is accepted the South American Indian came from the Asian continent, crossing thru Alaska and south into North America and down into South America. Shadow was indeed our Hero for the day...!!
Jeffrey was waiting in his boat for our return.... He swiftly deposited a very tired crew back to the Tree of Life. Sheri stayed aboard while the rest of our gang went to dinner ashore. They feasted on the Island specialty, Mountain Chicken..!! Frog Legs..!!

29 November 2001

After another wonderful breakfast, we set sail for St. Pierre in Martinique. We came into the harbor of yet another, even smaller village at about 5:00 p.m.

The shoreline was one big line of shacks so closely built, I think they were used to support one another. With the Customs office closed, we made an “illegal” visit into town (Shhhhh..!!) only to find most businesses had closed for the day.!!

Back on board for a Steak, Sausage and vegetable Bar B Q... A movie on DVD and off to bed......

Sheri and I went into the village early the next day... First stop, a one room Museum dedicated to the Old St. Pierre....!!! Old St. Pierre was the center of commerce and called
the “Paris of the Caribbean” in the late 1800’s. In 1902, the volcano just above the town erupted and killed 35,000 residents, reducing the city to ashes.

Today, only this small fishing village with a Rum Distillery remains... Evidence of St. Pierre's former position in the French West Indies has been reduced to the occasional stone walls from the buildings destroyed. Because this happened as recently as the turn of the century, the photos of the before and after are dramatic..!!

We found the remains of what once was a beautiful theater. Some stone walls remain and the floor that once held the stage, the orchestra pit and an area for audience seating.

From this vantage point, I must point out how green the hillsides were, looking over the dark gray walls, were fields of sugar cane. We followed the road to the center of the hillside and found the Depaz Distillery, makers of the islands finest Rum.

Once there we followed a self guided tour of the Plantation and the actual distillery. The tour ended in a company store where their "specialties" were sold to the visiting tourists. We splurged and bought a bottle of Liquid Sugar...!! We’ll pour yoo a little sugar into your next Iced Tea..!!

We met a very nice young man in the parking lot where tour busses and taxies had gathered, he spoke English. I asked about getting a taxi to drive us to another Plantation for lunch. He was working for a tour company and checking on his Tour Leaders.

Once assured they were OK, he offered to drive us. Once in his van he asked why we had chosen the Plantation, “Not the best food and filled with tourists...” he said. Ives, suggested we try a Creole restaurant where the locals eat.

Sheri and I were eager to try his suggestion. He drove almost an hour to Fort de France, up and away from the coast to a small neighborhood shopping center.... We were looking at one
another trying to decide how we got ourselves into this one...!!

Ives led us to the top level of the three story open Center. The restaurant, Cane de Sucre was empty at 1:15 p.m. He introduced us to the Manager and left to be called on his cell phone when we finished for the return ride back to the Tree.

We ordered from a Menu and Daily Special sheet, describing dishes we would expect to find in France. Everything we ordered came out of the kitchen prepared as delicately as one could... We were pleasantly surprised.

Oh, the restaurant was now filled with locals for lunch, no tourists save two..!! We called Ives after a two hour three course “Lunch.” Sheri managed to save room for the Creme Brule and I had a little sorbet.....When Ives arrived, he told us he would take us back a different way than the coastal road we had come in on. Did he ever...!! He drove thru the Rain Forest...!! The mountain roads here reminded us of Dominica.... narrow, steep, winding thru tropical green trees, flowers of all kinds and the banana fields....

He was wealth of information... we never stopped asking questions about the country, the volcano disaster of 1902, the work the people do and how they live from day to day. Once out of the Rain Forest, we were facing the towering cloud covered Volcano.... Awesome sight...!! The little village of St. Pierre is very poor and will never recover its greatness. The buildings and homes that cover the Old City are poorly built and run down.

The villagers cut sugar cane and bananas, low paying jobs. There are a few who manage to make a living driving a taxi for the occasional tourist who may want to see “What a beautiful city St. Pierre used to be.”

Ives drove us to the waters edge in the center of town. I paid him for the day and we called the Tree on the radio to be picked up on the dinghy.

Isla and Laura were on their way in to do shopping. Perfect, we’d go back with Simon and Lee... Oh, I forgot to mention Hurricane Lenny... Hurricane Lenny wiped out the entire waterfront two years ago, including the marina and all the docks. So, we have to take off our shoes and roll up our pants over our knees and wait for the right wave to jump into the dinghy.... Got that picture in your head...?? Good, because what happened next was very, very funny..!!! As the dinghy came close to shore, Isla and Laura timed their “jump” into the rocky shore..... Sheri was eager to get aboard the dinghy and made "her move...." One hand on the strap on the dinghy and swift leg up and over.... A wave came in and lifted her leg upwards, she lost her footing on the rocks below... She slipped and flipped backwards into the water..!! There was Sheri, drenched, underwater, her legs in the air and Lee standing waist deep in his bathing suit, holding on to the of control dinghy... Watching Sheri going under...!! Only after I cried out in laughter was he able to release his own...!! He didn’t want to upset Sheri by laughing at what he just seen. Sheri's head came up and out of the water, she was now standing waist deep as well.... Laughing uncontrollably..!! Lee felt "much better" joining in the fun..!!

1 December

Isla and Simon made an early Food Run into the village, 7:30 a.m. They returned with fresh French stick bread and the most delicious warm ham and cheese croissants. Reminded me of my favorite bakery on Spring Street in Newport. The crew on deck, up went the sails, we were off to St. Lucia.

Another day in Paradise aboard the Tree of Life. Bright sunny skies, temperature in the low 80’s. We arrived at the mouth of Marigot Bay at 5:00 p.m. A slow and deliberate approach, with Simon up high on the schrouds watching for an underwater reefs the charts said were there. Working our way thru, Tony selected a safe place to drop the anchor and we would spend the night here. The harbor has a very small opening and high cliff sides. It is home to the Moorings Yacht Charter company.

A number of yachts passed us as they made their way to their slips or anchorages... Always a big wave and compliments about the Tree of Life... Even the French were impressed!!

Darkness fell, Isla and Laura served dinner on deck. As we ate we noticed a number of “things” flying past in the night. These “things” turned out to be Bats...!! Many, many flying past...!! Our spreader lights cover not only the deck, but an area of the waters surface on both sides of the hull. Well, the lights attracted fish to the surface and the Bats would silently swoop down, skim the water and leave, only to return and continue their silent search for food.

The “Kids” ( crew ) went off to a local “Jump-Up”... dance club. I made a call to Lesley via Sat Phone... She gave me a bit of world news, we have had no news at all.

I told her how much I wanted to see her... 18 more days. I hope Jeff can find time to get here as well, I miss him. I had hoped Dad and Irene would their way clear to visit us in Bonaire before we go thru the Panama Canal.

Dad told me this week that he is feeling OK, but thought the trip would be a bit too much or him. So, we will have to discuss alternatives... Lesley and I fell victim to the “Satellite Gods” as we were about to say Good Night... We were Terminated..!!

Sheri and I watched as the light of a Full Moon filled the area behind the cliff and trees atop the steep hills. It soon rose above the hills and filled the night sky, it made one feel that you could reach out ant touch it.... We listened to music on deck and then quietly retired to our aft stateroom.... G’nite..!!!

2 December 2001

Sunday morning... We decided to give Isla a break and have breakfast at a local restaurant on shore. We got there at 8:00 a.m. opening time.... Well, not exactly..!! Scheduled opening is at 8:00 a.m. However, opening depends on when the staff shows up. In this case, shortly after 9:00 a.m. And then another hour wait for their "Breakfast Special," Bacon and Eggs...!!!

But, it’s “Island Time” and no one seemed too concerned..!! We finished breakfast, raised anchor and sailed away for Bequia, which is south of St. Vincent. Last minute news before I try to send this in the morning. We suffered damage to the Gaff portions of both the fore and main sails. The storm between Bermuda and St. Martin most probably cause the break in both stainless steel brackets that connect the Gaff to the yoke that rides against the masts. We notice the break in the foremast last weekend the break in the main yesterday.

Both had been repaired in the past, and the welds let go. We will try to have new ones fabricated here in Bequia tomorrow. As a result, we were unable to sail, we motored the 65 miles there. Just about 10 miles away from the harbor, we watched a severe storm develop off our port bow, 11 o’clock.... Very dark clouds, almost black, filled the skies right down to the water.

Tony told everyone we were about to get hit hard...!! Sure enough, from a bright sunny day, we ran into high winds and very heavy seas...!! The Tree of Life heaved and rolled as the storm thundered into us...!! The rain appeared as a sheet of gray. The raindrops seemed determined to drive themselves thru the deck..!!

We were confined to the Pilothouse as Tony took the helm and held us on course. Isla was in the galley preparing dinner when the first huge wave picked us up and rolled us over hard to port. We heard the clanging of pots and dishes as we rolled..!! A quick check below assured us she was OK.. And so was dinner..!!

Then, just as quickly we found ourselves on the top of the wave, we were now rolling hard to starboard...!! We all took good footing and hand holds to keep from being tossed about.

Within 20 minutes the storm passed as rapidly as it appeared.... The sky again was filled with blue and the seas began to quite. The opening to safe harbor was now only a half hour away. We motored in, dropped anchor and went below. Isla presented us with a dinner of roasted chicken breasts, spinach and pine nuts wrapped in filo dough with a fresh mixed greens salad.

The day just ended with a Alex Baldwin movie, State and Main. Sheri is asleep as I'm finishing this last entry.

Best to all of you...... John