15 February 2002

Its the New Year and much has happened to the Tree of Life, to her crew, to Sheri and to me. We left you last, altering course from south to the West, heading for the Venezuelan Island of Los Roques. It is an island with one small fishing village. There are no cars and the streets are made of sand. It’s a wonderful little getaway kind of place. Some of the houses are as you'd expect, little one or two room shacks, homes to the local fishermen. Other homes, build right along side, are luxury homes for wealthy Caracas businessmen and their families.

A small runway was recently built to accommodate small planes and private jets, but no airport building. The local, full time residents are very different from their weekend visitors from the mainland. It is a very hard life out here, it shows on the faces of the people you see on the streets.

We went to an outdoor restaurant for dinner, indoors was a private home..!! We were shown to a table, an old picnic type table in the sandy front yard. Two little boys soon appeared at the door to the house next to our table. He showed the owner a bucket of fresh fish... she took it. That was our dinner, along with delicious pasta, salad and assorted vegetables.

We were never shown a menu nor asked what we wanted to eat. Sounds like growing up in my house as a kid.... we ate what Mom made..!!

These are the kind of places I wish we’d known about and scheduled more time to spend with the people and learn about their lives. Some of the younger people spoke English, the older generation, just Spanish.

But, we had a schedule to meet in Panama. After three days, we sailed to the Dutch Island of Bonaire off the northern coast of Venezuela. We spent a month in Harbor Village Marina, while the crew went home for the holidays. Captain Tony and Laura went to visit Tony's family in Tasmania, the southern most island in Australia. It was his first time home in four
years. Simon was off to visit Aunts and Uncles and attend a friends wedding in New Zealand. Isla went home to Amsterdam for Christmas with her Mother. And Lee, who's from Cape Town, South Africa, stayed aboard the Tree of Life with us.

The “voyage” has been more than our wildest dreams could have ever imagined. The Crew, again I say, is the best I could have assembled...!! Tony is at the top of his game as Captain..!! He LOVES what he’s doing and he does it exceedingly well. It shows in the way he carries himself. He’s mastered the ability to keep everyone on board “happy” doing what he "demands” of them, all on ship 18’ wide x 93’ long. Not much room to go for a walk if you're unhappy with things or with someone aboard..!!

Simon has evolved in his position as First Mate & Engineer on board. He is a perfectionist in his personal life and it carries over into his professional responsibilities. Simon reminds me that “Still water runs deep..!!”

He is entrusted with our well being while aboard the Tree of Life.Simon maintains all the mechanical systems and there many, doing preventive maintenance ensuring the equipment will operate without failure nor ddisruption as to cause harm or inconvenience to any of us.

Laura handles the Deck and Rigging with similar determination. She walks the ship to “find” potential problems before they occur. She is, as it turns out, one heck of a sailor, too..!! Laura takes a back seat to no one, except her Captain, when it comes to sailing know how and skills at sea.

Isla continues to keep all of us “Fat & Happy” with the most creative meals imaginable. Her smile at 7:00 am, as she heats the water for morning tea and coffee before breakfast, is the same smile we see as she says “Good Night” following her day in the Galley. Her workday usually ends about 8:00 pm, preparing three meals for eight people each and every day..!! Sheri is in awe at her creativity, the meal planning and in her presentation...!!

And we have our “Dennis the Menace” look alike..!! Straight blond hair in a “bowl cut,” blue eyed and impish smile..!! Yes, Lee is still with us...!! He’s our “African” from Cape Town, South Africa..!! Every day brings new surprises with this one...!! You just have to laugh... Sometimes, you shake your head and laugh..!! But, laugh you must..!!

The newest addition to our growing “Training Crew” is Simon’s younger brother, “Little Pete” as Simon had been referring to him over the past year. He just finished college with a degree in Environmental Science. He will spend one year at sea with us. Simon had not seen “Little Pete” in over four years. Well, “Little Pete” flew into Bonaire last month from Australia... two inches taller than his 6’ 1” older brother, Simon..!! That brought quite a
laugh...!! Along with his surfboard, Pete brought along his “Didgeridoo.” Yeah, that's what I said.... What's a Didgeridoo...? Well, it’s a wind instrument played by the Aborigines in Australia. It’s a four foot long hollowed out small tree trunk, about three inches at the mouth and flaring out to five inches at the far end. The tree is hollowed out by termites, eating only the softer center portion of a small tree trunk, leaving behind a “potential Didgeridoo..!!”

The instrument is at the center of all Aborigines religious ceremonies, celebrations and the like. The most unique part of the instrument is not only in the unusual sounds produced... but, in the way the musician blows thru it. He does so in such a way, that there is never an interruption in the sound produced, even while he is taking a breath..!!! Pete fills his cheeks with air and expels that air into the instrument with facial muscles, while
inhaling thru his nose to replenish air into his lungs. Got that...?

He is always eager to play for us and others, as we are to listen. I watch people’s jaws drop at the unique sight and unusual sounds. It’s going to be tough for him to find someone to “jam” with, though.

The month proved to be exciting for us. First, Sheri and I have friends, Claire and Dick Kantor from Boston. They left Newport in 1995 on their 46’ sailboat “Runaway.” They spent almost five years sailing around the world. They loved Bonaire so much on their way to the Panama Canal, they made it their home when finishing their circumnavigation. We were in touch throughout their trip via E-mail, dinners in Boston, Newport and in Westport on their visits home. Well, the Tree of Life was given a “Standing Welcoming” to Bonaire. I spoke to Claire early in the day, 7:00 am ‘ish, telling her we were sailing in just one mile off the coast.

Within minutes, an RIB was streaking across the water, headed in our direction. There was Claire, standing in the bow holding a rope for balance and Dick standing right behind her, holding an extension handle attached to the outboard motor, water spraying at every wave. Sheri and I went to the bow to greet them... Smiles all around...!! We’ll have lots to catch up on.

After excited “Hellos,” they directed us to Village Harbor Marina. Good to see old friends after such a long passage. The next “Big Happening”... Lesley’s arrival for 10 days..!! After a few “glitches” with American Airlines, she and Stephanie finally made it to Bonaire.... WONDERFUL to be with Lesley any time, any day...!! She and Steph stayed at the Plaza Resort Hotel. Sheri and I ferried back and forth in our Tender. We spent the week going to classes each morning from 9:00 am to noon and the afternoons in the water taking SCUBA lessons, including Christmas Day. We spent the week just “Having Fun..!!” If you see Lesley ask to view the video of our dive for certification. Bonaire diving.. one of the world’s
best.

The Yachting Community is a very small one. Sheri and I were introduced to sailing couples from every part of the world. Afternoon cocktails and dinners were dominated by discussions of past and future itineraries. Exciting stuff.!!

2002 was welcomed in with dinner at a local restaurant with friends. We missed being with family and friends at home..!! Within two weeks we were off to Stuart, FL to visit Irene, Dad, Ed and Aunt Catherine. First hand report is.. Dad looks GREAT..!! As does everyone else. Lesley was able to find time in her busy social life to fly to Florida for the week we were there.. a real BONUS for me..!! We’re planning another trip for Lesley to visit, this time for her to sail with us on the Tree of Life in the middle of May for 6 to 8 weeks ( with Jeff I hope ).

We should be in French Polynesia sailing our way to Tahiti.

The crew returned to the Tree the night before we flew to Florida. Everyone had a wonderful Holiday. Isla and Laura’s mother flew back with Isla from Holland and spent two weeks aboard with her daughters. She was just beaming with delight. Both girls working on the same ship for the first time..!! We were able to spend the last four days with her before she returned to Holland.

The crew spent the next few days “provisioning” for the next leg of our trip. We sailed out of Bonaire headed for Cartagena, Colombia knowing the winds were forecast to blow at 25 to 30 knots with seas 10 to 15 feet. Well, weren’t disappointed..!!! Tony set the Foresail and Jib, we sailing at 9 knots, rocking & rolling..!! The rough seas were getting the better of
us, too long docked in Bonaire I think. So, during my midnight watch,

Tony and Simon agreed with me that we had been punished enough, we’d alter course for Aruba and hope for calmer weather to come..!! There’s something to be said for living in the 21st century. Here we were, weary from stormy seas, taking refuge in an island harbor, the
Sonesta Resort Hotel & Marina, complete with three pools, six water taxis to their private island beach, three restaurants, two casinos and a beautiful Spa where they offering and we were up getting “Deep Muscle Massages.”

We met two other yachts going our way. They too, were waiting for the seas to settle down before heading out. First a 36’ foot sailboat, Makulu, had a crew of five Americans, three men and two women in their middle 20’s, Captained by 26 year old Erin. They were starting a two and a half year circumnavigation. The project is funded by a New York City Educational
Trust, they met with the of school’s a month before leaving, getting to know the students. They’ll E-mail reports and pictures of their adventure as they sail from country to country, in much the same way as I had intended to do here.

I still haven’t mastered the Tree’s E-mail connection yet..!! But, I’m working on it. The students are then be able to ask the crew questions along the way and suggest experiments for them to try. It sounds like a great project.

“Willow Street,” a 47’ Catalina, was in Newport this past summer. Her Captain, Claude, is a 21 year retired Coast Guard Officer who headed the Atlanta, GA Air and Sea Rescue Station for four years before retiring last year.

He, his wife Wendy, a friend Chris from New York and puppy left with us. They were heading west, straight to the Panama Canal, we were sailing south west to Cartagena. The third boat, Makulu, left an hour after us. She is a 37’ yacht and was sailing west south west heading to the San Blas Islands off the Panama coast. We’d be sailing fairly close for the first two days.

All three Captains agreed to keep the early morning radio schedule. The weather forecast said high winds and sea were here to stay. Other boats who were waiting for the conditions to ease, saw there was no sign of that happening. Tony and two other Captains shared their proposed routes and set radio schedules for the next leg, we’d sail to Cartagena.

We’d all leave the following morning and stay in contact via VHF radio. Contact was made with Makulu, they were being tossed around quite a bit, but they were safe..!! We heard Willow Street call both Makulu and us, yet they didn’t respond to our return calls. At 11:00 pm we got a call from Willow Street, they lost their rudder..!! The shaft was intact... but no rudder..!!

We were 45 miles south of them with winds at 35 Kts out of the east north east in 15 foot seas. We sat down on the aft deck, trying to figure out how we could help...!! With the Tender in the davits, it didn’t allow for a tow line. In these seas, we couldn’t move the Tender onto the deck. We told Claude we couldn’t help with a tow. We’d set a rescue effort in motion when we arrived in Cartagena if they had not gotten help. They were relieved knowing that it would only be another three days at worse, he understood...!!

Later, Willow Street radioed they secured a Tug Boat out of Cartagena. It would provide them a tow and could be there within 5 hours...!! We were relieved to hear the news, we were “most uneasy” leaving them.

The conditions were severe for smaller boats, no doubt..!! We sailed 225 miles in that 24 hour day, 35 to 40 knot winds, 12 to 15 foot seas, with just the Jib and Foresail, on autopilot, beating Simon’s Tree of Life record of 205 miles in 24 hours,crossing the Atlantic from Cape Verde to Antigua in March 2000. Aside from being a bit “unpleasant” aboard the Tree of Life, there was never a minute of concern for our safety.

Tony & Simon said they’ve never sailed at that speed on any vessel.!! The Tree of Life continues to demonstrate the soundness of her construction and in her design. The Tree was never beyond her ability to handle the conditions.. We sailed throughout on autopilot..!! Thank you Kelly for your decision to have Ted Brewer design this truly safe and wonderful ship. An aside, Ted Brewer was inducted into the Sailing Hall of Fame this past summer. He certainly is in ours..!!

Next day....

Sailing into Cartagena, Colombia this morning looked like sailing into a miniature New York City. A skyline with tall office buildings, condominiums and hotels along the shore. There were two options to enter the harbor from our approach, a “short cut” thru a very narrow and shallow opening between a reef off the mainland and a large island. Or, an additional 15 mile sail around the island. Tony decided to lower the sails and slowly power in for a “closer look” at this narrow opening shown on the chart... We moved slowly and cautiously with Simon high in the rigging for a better look. Suddenly, two small fishing boats, slightly larger than a row boat really, came along side. They were five or six smiling fishermen and their catch
of lobsters. They knew full well we were “feeling out” the situation. With their arms waving, they encouraged us to follow their lead.

We followed as they slowed to idle speed and carefully guided us thru. Tony and Simon agreed, without their help, we would have turned and sailed the additional three hours around the island. Once thru the narrow opening... smiles reappeared on the faces of the men. They began waving their hands, telling us now it was “OK” to pick up speed and continue on toward the harbor. We all yelled out “Gracias” in our best Spanish. Lesley, we needed you.!!
It was a very nice way to be welcomed to Cartagena, Colombia.

Once secure in a slip at the Yacht Club & Marina, we were processed in by an Immigration Agent sent to the marina. A PROBLEM...!!! The Apartheid policy in South Africa’s past lingers on politically in some parts of the world. It certainly did here in Colombia and will be a problem in Panama.

Lee, our trainee from Cape Town was without a visa, he was not allowed off the ship. They said he would be jailed if found to be ashore...!! Even allowing him stay aboard the Tree was “bending the rules.” The agent appeared to have compassion for Lee, but said there was nothing she or anyone else could do. Lee agreed not to leave the ship and the agent left. Sheri and I went into the “Old Fortified City” of Cartagena the next morning. The city streets are open only to foot traffic. It was bustling with workers. This was not your typical cruise ship tourist stop. There’s very little for a tourist to do, but marvel at the architecture, visit galleries, the museums and there is no “Dangerous Shopping..!!” LOL..!! And marvel we did, at every corner...!! I couldn’t wait to radio the crew what was in store for them when their work aboard the ship was finished. We walked thru darkened passageways off the main streets. They opened to beautiful gardens and courtyards. Some were transformed into elegant hotels and restaurants. We’ll have a quiet dinner at one of them tonight. Back to the Marina about noon, just in time for lunch.

We then got the “Bad News..!!!” Claude, owner of “Willow Street” came to the Tree of Life about 1:00 pm, he looked awful.!! This a brief retelling of Claude’s story to me.
They had a harrowing two days and nights aboard their yacht. Willow Street was at the mercy of the sea and winds without a rudder, the conditions weren’t very kind to her, 15 foot waves in 40 knot winds...!! They could do nothing but hold on..!! The Tug Boat made it out to their
position about 10:00 pm. They decided to wait ‘till daylight before attempting to tie a tow line between the Tug and the yacht.

By 9:00 am, several attempts had failed to tie a tow line. A line was secured about 10:00 am... But, Willow Street didn’t cooperate, without a rudder, she swerved from side to side and wouldn’t follow, jerking hard at the line at every turn and no way to control her...!!

The decision was made to transfer Wendy, the dog and their friend Chris off the yacht onto the Tug Boat. Easier said than done..!! Having been in charge of the Coast Guard’s Air and Sea Rescue facility in Atlanta, Claude explained the danger of such a transfer in rough seas. He offered that it was the first time that “genuine fear” was on everyone’s mind, their hearts were pounding.!! He told them they had “One chance to get it right.!!” He secured both life jackets with safety lines. The Tug was to come along side of the yacht, both were going up and down independent from one another depending on the waves. The plan was, when the two decks met, they were to jump onto the Tug. As the Tug moved and heaved toward them for
the pick-up, the 12 inch thick eyebrow on the Tug’s hull came down hard on Willows Street’s deck, damaging the edge where the deck and hull meet. Claude’s experience helped ready them for the dangerous transfer to the Tug’s deck. He stood behind each of them, when he judged
the timing right, he yelled JUMP..!! There could be no hesitation..!!

He pushed them off the yacht..!! Wendy and Chris made it without injury..!! Claude stayed onboard Willow Street. The yacht then surfed down a wave in the following seas and collided into the Tug’s stern, the tow line tore away and another hole. Willow Street was adrift again and now taking on more water..!!!

The time had come for Claude to make his own “trip” to the Tug..!! He went below, putting more of their personal items into a canvas bag that he could throw over to the Tug. He ccepted he was saying “Good Bye” to Willow Street for good..!! Claude & Wendy spent a year working with Catalina, custom finishing the 47’ production yacht to their tastes. Willow Street, launched just two years ago, was sinking...!!

We haven’t seen Wendy or Chris yet. As I said earlier,Claude had to clear up some paperwork before they were allowed to leave the Tug Boat. That’s standard Immigration and Customs procedure. The Captain clears in all crew and passengers before anyone enters the country. However, lunch waits for no one. So, Claude paid us a visit when he was asked to leave for their “Lunch Break” at 12:00 noon. He was to return to complete his report at the Port Office when it reopened at 2:00 pm.

Simon gathered some new Tree of Life shirts for them to wear. Claude took them with big hugs from us all.... we sat in silence. The afternoon was an emotional drain for the entire Tree of Life Family. Friday evening,we had a quiet dinner aboard and it was early to bed. Saturday night, the three survivors of Willow Street and the puppy, Seamus, sat with us aboard the Tree. We could see the initial emotions and shock had subsided a bit as they spoke about their future plans. They were looking for another boat...!! We went to a wonderful restaurant in the Old City for dinner, Seamus sat quietly in his travel bag under the table.

You know, when you decide to travel with a dog, you never know how receptive restaurants will be. Cute story.! We went to dinner in three taxis, all but Lee. Wendy has this really nice bag for Seamus, with netting on the front and a zippered top. She had done her best to keep Seamus calm in the tote bag. We got out of the Taxi, OK..!! Seamus was quiet as we walked toward the two Doormen at the restaurant. Well, this like so many other Old Cities,
you can rent a horse drawn buggy for a tour of the city at night...!!Yep..!! One look thru the netting at the passing horse created a flurry of activity in Wendy’s carry on..!! Seamus was very excited..!! The Doorkeepers laughed at the look on Wendy’s face and said it was Ok..!!

We had a delightful dinner with our new friends. We hope to see them again. There are words of caution throughout the sailing community about safety and risk of going to Cartagena. Many insurance companies have a “No Colombia” rider. Well, if ever I’m asked, Cartagena will be on everyone's list of places to visit..!! The Port Officer went out of his way in his welcoming words and advice via radio when we were still five miles out.

The Marina staff looked after our every request with warm smiles. Security within the Marina was air tight, the facility is first class and undergoing upgrades in the showers and laundry for cruising yachts. The “Old Fortified City” is still a center of daily commerce, not just a tourist center selling T Shirts and jewelry. The historic Castle and Forts are open to the public. You can see where Michael Douglas dove off the wall in “Romancing The Stone.” Now that’s history..!!! LOL..!!

Sheri noticed even before I did, that we were two of the few tourists there..!! Everyone we met from the taxi drivers, shop keepers, restaurant waiters, shoppers in the supermarket and just people we met on the street, responded with “Hola,” a smiled greeting. If you happen to be in the area, stop in and be treated to a wonderful city built by the Spanish and be treated well by the Colombian people. The Coffee isn’t bad either..!! We did a major stock up on Colombian Coffee purchased from “Juan Valdez,” who just happened to be in town. The coffee store is owned by an American named Lee Miles from California. He’s been here for 25 years. Great guy to chat with, a long time sailor, married to a Colombian woman with a son headed to MIT next year. He also owns the Emerald Jewelry Store, a Travel Agency and publishes the “Travelers Guide to Cartagena...!!” The Travelers Guide is filled with suggested shopping spots, A Coffee Store, an Emerald Jewelry Store, and a Travel Agent who can arrange tours..!!!

Monday Afternoon 4th of February

It’s 2:00 pm, we’ve been sailing since 10:00 am for the San Blas Islands at 7 Kts. This is an archipelago of over 360 islands between Colombia and Colon, Panama. The islands and the mountains along the coast are autonomous from the Panamanian government since 1952 . The Kuna Indians are living on what is essentially a reservation following an “uprising” in 1924. It wasn’t nice..!!

The indians massacred a few Panamanian nationals and Panama didn’t like it..!!
The United States intervened to prevent Panama from taking full military
retaliation against the Native Americans. A 1952 Treaty gave the entire
San Blas area to the Kuna Indians. If you don’t know about the San Blas
Island’s Kuna Indians, go to the internet..!! You will be Fascinated!!
We’ll sail thru the night and be there by late-morning, 165 miles from
Cartagena. We bought coconuts and black bras to barter with.
Go ahead, tell me I haven’t sparked your intrest just a little...!!
All the reading in the sailing guide books have sparked mine.
11
Tuesday Afternoon 5th of February
We dropped anchor in the harbor at Tupac Island in the San Blas at 1:30 pm.
Tony and I went into the village while the crew washed the ship free of the
accumulated salt from an all night sail. We tied our Tender to a makeshift
dock and were escorted to shore by three very enthusiastic boys.
Two appeared to be six or seven years old and an older boy about twelve.
In our “Best Spanglish,” we tried to tell them we were looking for the Chief
of the village. The older boy smiled, in broken English told us to follow him.
This fishing village is said to be typical of many in the San Blas Islands.
From our anchorage, we could see the huts along the shore were primitive.
Well, the village is a step back in time for us..!! All the huts in village
were
of similar construction, made of sugarcane stalks for walls and thatched
roofs. I could see thru the spaces in the walls of every hut as we passed.
We followed the older boy and the younger ones followed us.
We were invited into the Chiefs “compound,” comprising of his hut, three
walls made of sugarcane stalks, the fourth open to a sort of backyard patio.
It was enclosed by a sugarcane fence. We entered thru a very narrow
opening between other huts. There, in a hammock was an elderly man
swinging ever so slowly, back and forth just inches above the dirt floor.
A brief discussion between he and the older boy sent the boy running in
search of yet another. While waiting, we shook hands, smiled and exchanged
a few words. He directed his daughter to bring us two plastic stacking
chairs, the kind you’d find at K-Mart. Within minutes another young man came.
David, an eighteen year old, rather small for his age.
He asked what we wanted in fairly good English.
We said we were in anchored off their shore and wanted to meet with the Chief
to say “Hello” and ask for his permission to visit the island. We knew from
reading the Cruising Guide to Panama, that is what will be expected of
us in every village we visit. We are obligated to pay the Chief a fee for
his permission. David asked for the money right up front,“You must pay Chief
$ 6.00.. Now..!” We paid the money and gave the Chief a picture of the Tree.
He was all smiles, we shook hands again as David led us back to the dock.

He studied English for two years at school on the mainland of Panama.
He said he would like provide for a tour of the island, as our guide.
We graciously accepted him in his new position, “Our Personal Guide” during
our two day stay. We managed to pick up more than a few curious onlookers as
well. Everywhere we looked, there were women dressed in very colorful
blouses and skirts. They wore colorful red head scarves as well.
With a closer look, I could see that the women had black markings on their
faces. One dominated all others..!! Each woman had a black marking running
down the full length of her nose. Each woman’s was different, but similar.
They smiled as we walked by. The children now came out of everywhere wanting
to pose for pictures. David, too wanted us to take his picture.
“Digital.!!” he said, “Computer print tonight, you bring it to me in the
morning.”
He was “Mr. Cool” in his U2 T Shirt... He said it was his favorite group..!!
He pierced his eyebrow with a stud and lifted his hair to show us..!!
We went back to the ship for lunch and returned within the hour for a
tour of the island. Tony decided to break us up into two groups for security.
One would visit the village today and the other group would go in the
morning. There work to be done aboard, enough to keep everyone busy for days.
Sure enough, David was waiting for us at the dock, along with three other
teenaged boys. They led us on a two hour hike around the entire island...!!
We saw the coconut groves, their biggest export to Colombia. David climbed
a tree and broke open two coconuts for us to taste.... Wonderful..!!
The beaches were sandy stretches between out cropping of black coral.
The other boys acted as our “assistant guides” One of them, Presilionos,
spoke some English. He told us he was learning by using a dictionary..!!
Claire and Dick Kantor said they were in the San Blas Islands for two months
and it wasn’t nearly enough time to experience it all. On our first day here,
I understand what they meant. This is a flashback in time, these people
choose to remain without the convinces of the 21st Century except one..!!
There is a phone booth in the center of the village square near the dock.
It looks as though the things we take for granted never reached here.

Wednesday 6th of February
Sheri and I went into the village, armed with pictures I printed from
yesterdays visit. It was like a mini holiday as each of the children came to
get their picture..!! Great fun..!! Laura, Tony and Pete, the second group,
had just returned to the village from their trek around the island. We met
them at the “Basket Ball Court” !! A ball appeared, it needed a little air,
they wanted to play a little 21..!! So, here we were shooting “Hoops” on
Tupac..!!
Part of the special clothing worn by the women are “Molas,” the sewing
of colorful designs on a piece of fabric and applied to their blouses,
both on the front and the back. We read about them in the guide books.
We asked about buying “Molas” and a flurry of activity began in the village.
The women began running to their huts and returned with sheets
and blankets to put on the ground to display their handicraft.
Although there were Molas made by different women on the same blanket, there
was no doubt as to who created the piece when it came time to get paid..!!
Sheri and Laura enhanced the local economy with a few purchases.
With lots of waving and cheering, we got into the Tender for a short
ride to the ship at anchor. We readied the Tree of Life for a three
hour sail to the next island village, Ustupu. It is bigger island, with much
larger population than Tupac. The dock was filled with waving indians.
The seas were again high and we rocked a bit in getting here. The good news
is, big waves were breaking on the island. The crew would soon break out
their surfboards and hit the water. Tupac’s village numbered just over 200
people. This island, Ustupu, has over 3,000 in the village.
Unlike Tupac, we didn’t have to go into the village to visit the Chief..!!
A very large dugout canoe carrying three young women in colorful traditional
dress, with paperwork in hand, were on their way to welcome us to their
island and... to collect the $6.00.!! They asked permission to come aboard.
They smiled and giggled as Sheri invited them to go below and see the ship.
They pranced around the deck, laughing and waving at their friends who
were watching from the dock and others paddling around us in a
fleet of dugout canoes. Again, we were “invited” to visit their village.

The anchor just about settled on bottom when Simon, Pete and Lee had their
surfboards out, getting the wax applied. Laura, Isla and I went ashore for a
walk around the village, while the “Boys of Summer” headed for the reef.
We walked thru the streets greeting and chatting with the villagers.
Spanish words here and a smile there, we somehow seemed to understand..!!
As we walked between the huts, same construction as in Tupac, I could hear
the surf. Up one dirt pathway and right on another brought us to the windward
shore where our guys were waiting for the right wave. They attracted a large
crowd of spectators who had never seen a surfboard let alone three crazy guys
standing on them, riding the waves. This was a very excited group of 30 women
and children. They were eager to meet us, too.!! Pictures all around,
big smiles, friendly handshakes and we were off to see more of the village.
We got back to the dock at 6:00 o’clock. We set that time for Lee to
pick us up. He was alone, Simon and Pete decided to surf a while longer.
Later, I could loud cheering coming from the dock. I look over in that
direction, but didn’t notice anything special going on. Within a few minutes,
Simon and Pete were along the side of the ship, paddling their boards...!!
When finished surfing, they paddled toward the shore. As they got closer in,
they realized a large crowd of children gathered to watch them and were
yelling and cheering as they paddled closer to shore. Now, picture this...
Simon and Pete dressed in black wet suits and rubber boots, walking out of
the water with their boards... now seventy-five kids surround them, touching
them and wanting to feel the surfboards. All of them cheering and yelling as
they walked thru the village. At one point, the boys asked to carry the
surfboards... and they did..!! They walked five in a line with the boards
high
above their heads, across the village to the dock, cheering and laughing...!!
Once there, Simon and Pete had to put the boards back in the water and paddle
out to the Tree of Life at anchor. The noise I heard earlier, was the send
off the kids gave as they hit the water for the trip back to the ship...!!
While all this was going on, Isla, Laura, Tony and Lee went to the
village Pub where they met the 76 year old Chief of the village.

They also met a young man, Sam, from East Los Angeles who was
just assigned here for a two year tour of duty in the Peace Corp.
They invited him for breakfast in the morning.
Thursday, 7th of February
Sam was at the dock right on schedule, 9:00 am. Simon, Pete and Lee returned
from early morning surfing on the reef. Isla and Laura were frying Fresh
Tomatoes, Sausage, Bacon and Eggs and the sun was letting us know it was
going to be a very hot day. We learned more about the Kuna Indians
from Sam, about their customs, traditions and the threat to their lifestyle.
Sam was involved with the just completed census. He said the numbers show
a dramatic shift in the makeup of the village. The largest group by age on
the island are the children from birth to 12, the second largest adults 45 to
65.
Most children now go to the mainland of Panama for High School.
Once there, the majority choose to live in the modern world. The older
generation are now having the children we see here today. The 45 to 65 year
old group I described in the census report are now parents to their second
generation of children. There’s very little for the kids to do on the island.
Sheri and I ventured once again, onto the island for a walk thru the
villages “residential area.” This is where the dirt streets are reduced to
narrow walkways between the huts. At first, we felt uncomfortable,
feeling we were intruding on their privacy as we could almost look into their
huts thru the walls of sugarcane stalks. But, the children ruled...!!
They surrounded us, held our hands as they led us thru... There were
calls of “Hola” from inside the huts as we walked past. There was a rare
“Hello” which brought a halt to the proceedings. I would always go back
to that hut and open a discussion. Most of the people here who speak some
English are the older men who worked in the “Zone” as it is referred to
here. The men worked at the Panama Canal where the American administered
its operation until 1999. The Chief of the village worked as a cook
for an American family in the Canal Zone, his English is pretty good.

Back to our day. The little girls just wanted to touch Sheri’s hair, there
was an attempt to braid it as she walked. My hands were being held by both
girls and boys which made it difficult to take pictures...!! We haven’t
experienced anything like this since our trip to the small islands in
Indonesia.
It’s going to be a challenge for me to describe the afternoon on the Tree.
According to an old fisherman, we are the largest boat to ever visit the
island, they’ve never seen a Gaff Rigged Schooner. We’ve been
surrounded throughout our stay with people in their dugout canoes. Some
asked to come aboard... Well, we visited their homes, it was only fair..!!
The next four hours brought visitors of all shapes and sizes. Older men and
women, little boys five and six years old, all got the word that the ship was
open to visitors.!! I can’t describe the magnitude of the goings on here...!!
We were visited by the village Chief, fishermen who paddled past us each day
on their way to work, farmers who paddled their canoes going to the fields on
the mainland and the kids,they smiled so, I thought their faces would
break.!! Up and down, in and out, looking thru binoculars, there were
people everywhere .... It was nice to be in the middle of it all...!!
We met Mary, another Peace Corp worker from Harrisburg, PA.
She heard in the village that we were inviting visitors. She and two Indian
women, dressed in their finest, paddled out to us in a dugout canoe. They
were welcomed aboard an already full house..!! Sheri took the tribes women
below for a look around. They didn’t want to leave, in fact they didn’t..!!
They
found a spot for themselves on deck and sat for almost an hour. They were
aboard before the Chief came on and stayed until well after he left..!!
They got me to buy two more Molas. Great fun for the crew as well...!!
I didn’t have to sit on the deck and ask... “Where are you from..??”
( Private joke for those who have spent time aboard the Tree with me..!! )
Sunset brought the activities to an end for our visitors... The crew and we
sat on deck and slowly recovered, each recounting separate incidents.
It can be described as “A Happening..!!” After dinner, the Peace Corps
workers, Mary and Sam paddled a borrowed dugout out for a final visit.
They brought along two young American men in their early 20”s.

They’d been here for over a year, Mormon missionaries. They leave in six
months to return home, one from Los Angeles and the other from Santa Fe, New
Mexico. It was interesting to get their perspective on the Kuna Indians,
their personal backgrounds and their work in the village. Mary had to
meet one of the men at 5:00 am for a trip to the sugarcane plantation.
They had just as many questions of us and the crew, as we had for them.!!
We said were scheduling an early departure in the morning.
So after coffee, tea and enough “sweet things” to make four young
adults happy we said Good Night.... I fell asleep straight away..!!!
Friday, 8th of February
Up at 6:00 am and on deck getting ready to leave..!! I felt like Custer..!!
“We were surrounded by Indians..!!” Men, women and boys were paddling
past in canoes on their way to work, fishing or in the sugar cane fields.
We were well underway heading to our next island stop, Isla Tigre when we met
three local fishermen in their dugout canoe, about two miles off shore.
As we approached them on what was clearly a collision course, they held
up large lobsters for sale..!! Tony maneuvered the Tree upwind, halting
our forward progress. Their boat came along side, three eager
fishermen offering their morning catch, huge crabs and lobsters.
Their price of $ 5.00 for a three pound lobster would make everyone happy.
Six lobsters and two huge crabs on deck and we were sailing again.
But, how were going to cook all these things onboard..? As we approached
Isla Tigre, we passed three very small islands, surrounded by a coral reef.
A look at the beautiful lagoon and beaches on shore and we dropped anchor.
The crew lowered the Tender into the water, assembled everything
we’d need to grill on the beach, we left the Tree for the island. We weren't
alone..!! We saw three children at play on the shore of the next island,
separated by 20 feet of shallow water. A visit was thought to be in order.
We didn’t want to trespass for our shore dinner. The older girl, about 12 was
baby sitting her two younger brothers while their father was out fishing.

They were staying in a makeshift hut and would return to their
home on an adjacent island the next day. We gave them a box of
chocolate cookies, we got big smiles and set off to “Our Island. ”
Scattered driftwood soon became a roaring fire. The lobsters and crabs,
served with corn on the cob, rice with coconut we picked a few days before
and grilled plantains. Tony played guitar and sang, with some “help”
from the others..!! It was 11:00 pm before we needled our way thru
the reef in the dark and back to the ship.
The next morning offered a better view of the coral reef. The crystal
clear water was too much to resist.. Snorkeling gear in place, we were
exploring the coral, sponges, sea fans and a multitude of oddly shaped,
brightly colored fish of many species. Simon ventured into slightly deeper
water, 15 feet and was startled by a five foot reef shark swimming into
view from behind .!! He joked about the encounter. “The shark recognized
I was bigger than him and swam away, I started after him, but lost him..!!”
Quite a different approach than the one I’d have chosen..!!
Noon and we were finally headed toward Isla Tigre less than an hour sail.
Again, Tony threaded the needle, motoring thru the narrow openings between
the coral reefs with the help of our spotter high in the shrouds, Simon.
Isla Tigre is a very small Kuna Indian village on a very narrow island
about a half mile off the mainland. The unique thing here is an “airport,”
it takes up 1/3 of the island. The runway looks like one of our back roads,
built in the 1930’s. It is 12 feet wide, full of ruts and potholes.
Yet, lands three single engine planes a day. Fresh fish, crabs and lobsters
are the main export for the community and flying is the fastest way out.
Although the island is close to the mainland, there are no roads within
100 miles over the mountains to the shoreline.
Simon, Pete and I Tendered in to meet the Chief, ask his permission to visit
his community and pay our respects, which translated into $24.00..!!
At all the other islands we paid and the Guide Book say the charge is $6.00.
I’m not sure why, and we didn’t speak Spanish well enough nor Kuna at all,
to understand the reason for the increase in the “visiting fee..!!”

The people on these island appear to be quite content with their lives.
There are a some outsiders who must believe otherwise..!!
I mentioned the Peace Corps workers and the Mormon Missionaries..
Today I met 20 young American Missionaries traveling the San Blas Islands.
They were from all over the United States, representing a Christian
Organization based in Boulder, Colorado. A great bunch of kids..!!
We spent about a half hour talking with them at the village dock.
They were going from island to island in two fishing boats in open ocean..!!
I told them I couldn’t believe they were doing that, knowing the rough waters
we’ve been in..!! Neither could they..!! It appears they were scheduled
to travel on a large boat until the agency miscalculated the money needed
for their trip. So, the scaled down alternative was these two fishing boats.
Oversized rowboat is more like it. They said everyone got seasick on every
leg of the trip..!! I could see why, I wouldn’t even go out in those
boats..!!
Isla was going to get the night off.. The Guide Book recommended
a seafood restaurant next to the airport, open 5:00 pm to 11:00 pm.
The crew finished the needed oiling, sanding and varnishing and showered for
dinner in town..!! Much to Isla’s disappointment, the door was padlocked.
Simon asked a few women on the dirt street if they knew anything about
the restaurant opening. The question resulted in a host of people getting
involved..!! Men, women and even some children were sent to find the owner.
With no success in finding him, we were told it probably wouldn’t open.
Isla was back on the clock..!! We’d have to return to the ship for dinner.
First, a walk thru the village proved it to be similar to the previous
islands. Warm and friendly people living in similar traditional thatched roof
huts
without floors or running water. Except..!!! Television antennas were
tied to bamboo poles high above a few huts..!! Power lines strung to poles
on the main path..!! Electric power had made it to the island and so too,
a few TV’s..!! A few more Molas purchases, wristbands were a new item.
OK, we got a few of them. Pete found hand carved replicas of their
sailing canoes. Once again, the children were at the center of village life.

We were back aboard the Tree, sitting on the deck when the roar
of an engine, 50 yards in front of us came to life..!! A loud big engine..!!
The noisy Diesel Electric Generator was the power source for street
lights, an occasional light bulb in a hut and those few television sets.
A world political and environmental roundtable followed dinner in the salon
on the Tree of Life tonight. I’m sure we came up with cures for some the
worlds ills that are just as good as those our leaders have proposed in the
recent years. Bear in mind the diversity of backgrounds and experiences our
own
little “United Nations” brings to our talks...!! Opinions are freely
expressed and are rarely similar. We have both strong liberal and firm
conservative support on most issues. It makes for quite an evening.
Monday 11 February 2002
Today, we find ourselves in Colon, Panama..!!
We, about fifty other sailboats and an equal number of huge tankers
are here poised to enter the Panama Canal for our passage into the Pacific.
But, Murphy’s Law seems to apply everywhere in the world..!!
We had a crossing date of 12 February 2002. Well, the Agent forgot
it was two days before Ash Wednesday, the beginning of Lent..!!
All governmental agencies and the banks are shut down for three days...!!
They said we might start thru the canal on Saturday or Sunday.
Our Agent was no where to be seen..!! Our Captain was less than pleased..!!
She was to have met us and handled all the documentation with the officials.
Tony called, she said all offices were closed for the holiday, Ash Wednesday.
If you want to party, however, it is a four day Carnival..!!
But, we are on the “wrong side of town..!!” Colon is one of the most
treacherous city’s in the entire world...!! Every guide book warns to stay
away..!! They even warned us about going to the supermarkets here..!!
Panama City, they say, is the safer place for Carnival celebrations....
It’s a two hour ride from here and we aren’t that willing to “Play”
in the streets with the locals of Panama anyway..!!
Tony had “words” with our Agent again this afternoon, she took our money
weeks ago and confirmed the crossing date for us two months ago..!!
We are now scheduled for the first lock at 5:30 am Thursday morning..!!

We are all pretty “Up” for this one..!! The Panama Canal is still the
marvel of transportation engineering and design...!!
Oh, a quick return to a previous topic.... Lee and Immigration!!
Remember he was under “Ship Arrest” in Colombia, relegated to
no further than our deck for the duration of our stay in Cartagena..?
Well, in Panama, it got worse..!! We are now down to seven people on the
Tree of Life... Five crew, Sheri and me, and one “Stowaway” we don’t know
about..!! The Agent said a visa for Lee would be at least $1,000 to $1,500.
It would take a week to 10 days to get it, maybe..!! We promised Lee
he could come up to see the sun 10 minutes a day..!! LOL..!!
In filling out the paperwork, there is a box on the form to list the
names of “Stowaways,” honest..!! We left it blank...!!
Like the US Immigration Form that asks foreigners arriving into our country
“Are you a Terrorist....?” Strange as that might seem, it’s true..!!
Enough for this day....
Tuesday 12 February 2002
Tony, Sheri and I left the ship at 9:00 am this morning to visit the
the first set of Locks on the Canal to see what we were in for.
Tony wanted to see a few ships pass thru the Locks to determine
what we would need in the way of equipment changes or additional lines.
A local taxi driver, Ellington, drove the 15 minute trip giving us his
version of history with regard to the US Army and Navy bases here.
Colon is where the Army trained US Special Forces for fighting in
the tropics and jungle, in preparation for Vietnam duty.
He has strong opinions about the Canal being returned to Panama.
“Worse thing ever to happen to the people in the Canal Zone,” he said.
Politicians made the deal only to get rich for themselves, the workers
get less and less money from the Panama controlled operation.
He feels the average Panamanian would like to see the US back here.
The streets are in the hands of criminals, that would not have happened
if a US Military Base was still here. MP’s would still patrol the city
along with the local police force, as they did in the past.

Our Canal Agent was on board the Tree when we returned at 11:30 am.
Tina McBride was offering her apology for not being here and doing her
“Agent Thing” with the authorities. She asked Tony to go to the Port Office
with her and talk to Port Control. After a little of “Getting to know you”
conversation, he said he’d see what he could do to up our crossing date.
He said he would call us on VHF radio at 10:00 pm with an answer.
10:30 pm.!! Port Control called, confirming a 7:30 am crossing tomorrow..!!
A Panamanian Pilot would come aboard for the duration of the crossing.
Yes, we are one excited bunch..!! Up on deck, we placed the fenders
into position along the hull. We “rented” 10 automobile tires as additional
fenders this afternoon, $3.00 each. They, too were put into position.
Additional two inch diameter dock lines, 300 feet of it came out the bilge,
positioned onto the deck. I didn’t know we had that much line on board..!!
We repositioned the Tender from the davits, onto the deck, a precaution
in the event we ‘touched” anything in the locks. Maybe we’d have
a damaged davit, but we’d have a safe Tender and motor.
The Captain then held a meeting below with us all. He cautioned us with
regard to our line handling, holding a 72 Ton ship with our hands, in a lock
with water rushing in and the turbulence the ship ahead would create when
moving from one Lock to another would be great..!! We witnessed it this
morning ourselves. Safety was his main concern..!! “We can always fix the
ship, we can’t replace an hand, an arm or a leg,” he said. “If you lose
control of a line, let it go..!!!” We understood his point and assured him
we’d use good judgment.
The cargo ships are guided thru the Canal Locks by Electric Mules on railroad
tracks, steel cables are attached from Ships to the Mules. Yachts going thru
are the responsibility of the yacht crew. The average cost for a cargo ship
crossing is $85,000. We are paying $1,000. So, we have to work harder..!!
They claim that Yachts take up to 20% of the operation of the Canal, but
return only 1 % of the Canal's revenue. We are NOT favored customers.
Ask other Yachties at anchor here about their wait. We met some
that have been here for 10 days and still don’t have a time. I counted
at least 40 boats here in the ‘Flats Anchorage,” waiting..!!

The Port Captain gave us another piece of information tonight...
The Panama Canal has a Web Cam at one of the Locks on the Pacific side.
The trip across should take about 12 hours... I’ll call Lesley and Melony in
the morning with the web site address and I hope you will see us going thru.
I thought I was the last one still awake tonight... But the sound of
footsteps overhead sent me topside... there was Tony, making another
adjustment..!!
The Canal has three double Locks at either end, 1000’ feet long
by 110 feet wide and 75 feet deep. The locks operate with fresh water from
watershed rivers. For the Canal to operate on salt water, it would have to be
pumped from sea level, 90 feet below the Canal Channel. The cost to install
pumps would have been exhorbitant while salt water would have corroded
lock mechanisms and destroyed vegitation. In 1928, Richard Halliburton paid
$ .36 in tolls to swim the Canal. It took him 14 days to complete the swim.
One other item to follow up on. Remember Makulu, our friends from Aruba doing
the “school thing” and sailed with us in the rough seas...? We spoke to them
this morning on the radio. They sailed into Calon this afternoon about 5:00
pm and dropped anchor next to us. With all the goings on here and the fact
they were tired from their all day sail, we haven’t had a chance to really
talk to them about their experience on the water when we lost Willow Street.
We’ll have to have early morning coffee or we’ll miss them.
The end of my day has come... Good Nite..!!
Excitement ran thru the ship early today, 6:00 am..!! After all, how many
people in the world can say they’ve been thru the Panama Canal on a private
yacht..? Only a small percentage of the world’s Yachties have done it..!!
Last minute preperations finished, we and the crew called home to tell our
families about the Web Cam located on the Pacific side and web address.
The Pilot assigned to us was due here in less than 15 minutes, Isla made
fresh coffee and tea. All we could do was wait.... and wait.... and wait....!!
It was after 8:00 am and no sight of our Pilot! Tony called Port Control on
the
VHF radio, a “diplomatic question” about being in the proper locacion to
meet the Pilot was asked. “When were you confirmed...?” was the reply. Oh
no..!!
Was Murphy’s Law about to hit us again..? Tony gave them all the details of
the past two days events, a long pause. “Sorry, not today, maybe tomorrow.”
Here we were, “All dressed up for the dance and no one to take us..!!”
You could have heard a pin drop in the Pilothouse of the Tree..!!

Tony broke the silence... “OK, let’s put the Tender back into the water..!!”
The crew moved a bit more slowly than we had earlier this morning.
Missing was the extra spring in our step as we moved across the deck.
Everyone has now settled in for a day of sanding and varnishing..!!
We will wait for further developments .....
***************************************************
Sheri and I taxied one hour to a small village on the coast, Portobello.
It was taken over from the Spanish by Pirate Morgan.
This is where he was reported to have been killed and ship sunk.
His treasure, believed to be aboard, is still the treasure hunter’s goal.
The village is also home to a famous statue, the Black Jesus Christ, carrying
the cross... The statue was shipped here from Spain in the early 1800’s.
As the population of Portobello grew smaller, the Church decided to move
the statue to a larger cathedral in a major city, to give it a
“Proper Place” and be more accessible to worshipers. The story here is
that in each of five attempts to move the statue from Portobello
resulted in the boat sinking in the harbor. The Church decided the
statue would remain in the village. It is their biggest tourist attraction.
The village homes are built among the remains of a fortress that once
protected Portobello from outsiders. It was the staging point for riches
and moneys gained in the New World for shipping back to Spain.
We returned to the ship a little after 5:00 pm to learn our new time
for crossing the Canal will be Saturday morning. Welcome to Panama..!!
We invited a sailor, Leo, from New Zealand to dinner tonight.
He delivered a boat to the Canal on the Pacific side, but has never been
thru the canal. All the Yachts going thru at this time of year are
going East to West. He rented a car, drove two hours to Colon and
was at the Panama Canal Yacht Club looking for a “ride to Panama City”
offering to help any owner with line handling. The earliest date
he could find was on a boat crossing in eight days, he had to be in
Mexico City next week for his flight home. He is a very interesting man.

So, we have an extra hand aboard for the crossing. He knows what he’s doing.
He earned his passage, though..!! He sanded the Pilothouse all day.
Today, I learned the Yacht Club had a live web cam in their office window.
I sent a couple of E-mails and called Lesley to say I’d go to the office at
5:00 pm and wave..!! Lesley was in Harvard Square shopping when I called.
She didn’t have access to a computer and I missed saying “Hi” to her.
I don’t know how many others were watching... So, “Hi” to you guys..!!
I did speak to Alan Kemp, who saw us live as I waved. He was able to
download the pic and print it for the others in California to see.
I left the Club House about 6:00 pm taking the Tender back to the Tree.
The rest of the crew stayed on for a bit longer and Lesley did get to see
them. Leave it to Les, she called the Yacht club and asked them to
go outside and have the crew wave to her.... which they did..!!
They then came out looking for me... She sent them on a second request..!!
Tony said I had returned to the ship.... Once again, they carried another
message from Lesley to Tony... “Ask John to call Lesley..!”
Sorry we missed one another, Les.!!!
I will call Melony when we get within a half hour of the Panama Canal camera.
She will call those on her list to let everyone know were close.
Port Control radioed this morning that we are now scheduled to go tomorrow
morning. The Pilot will board at 5:00 am. Yeah, we heard that before!
Final notice is given by roll call from Port Control to each Yacht at 10:00
pm.
They started the confirmation process early tonight, 9:40 pm.
The first Pilot boarding a yacht will be at 2:15 am... we waited....
“Tree of Life.... Port Control” ... came the radio call.
Tony responded, “We are ready for instructions for the Pilot boarding.”
“Tree of Life, the Pilot will board your vessel at 5:00 o’clock in the
Flats,”
said the voice. What wonderful news... we are going to the Pacific Ocean.
Wake up will be at 4:00 am, breakfast, haul the tender top side
and await the Pilot’s directions moving us toward the First Lock..!!
G’ Nite...

Friday Night 15 February 2002
The Pacific Ocean... We Made It..!!!
Thru the Panama Canal after a 4:00 am start.
We suffered minor damage to the Port side whisker pole.
It bent as our Bow “Kissed” the rubber bumper of the Tug Boat
when we were coming against along side to tie to, once inside the lock...
Other than that, crossing the Panama Canal was truly a monumental
event that each of us will not soon forget...!! Awesome..!!
Following morning, 16th Saturday..!!
Simon has the repair under control.... A quick weld, and we will have
it back in service long before we need it. It appears we will stay
in Panama City until the end of next week. Our Trans Canal Broker,
Tina McBride, who is hired to “grease the skids” in getting the paperwork
approved and documents signed with the Panama Canal Authority,
was at the Marina early this morning. She is a native of Panama,
therefore a wealth of information for the eager travelers aboard the Tree.
The crew and we spent the day touring Panama City while slipping in
some of things you might consider work if it weren’t so much fun...!!
Tina introduced us to Pedro, a Taxi cab driver she recommended,
here at the Marina..!! He stayed with us all afternoon as we
toured and shopped the city. Panama was the first European city
on the Pacific coast of the Americas...
I had better send this off or I’ll never stop writing...!!
Our thoughts are with all of you, and our Love
Sheri & John